裁(cai)剪(jian)就是將衣(yi)料分(fen)割成(cheng)各種形態衣(yi)片的工(gong)藝。有批量裁(cai)剪(jian)(又(you)稱工(gong)業裁(cai)剪(jian))和單件(jian)裁(cai)剪(jian)之(zhi)分(fen)。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)(an)照服裝號(hao)(hao)型(xing)系(xi)列(lie)制(zhi)作樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)進(jin)行(xing)多(duo)疊層的(de)(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。是服裝工業生產(chan)中的(de)(de)(de)(de)主(zhu)要(yao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)形(xing)式(shi)。主(zhu)要(yao)步驟為：①材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗(yan)。主(zhu)要(yao)是對衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)伸縮率、色(se)牢度(du)(du)(du)(du)、耐熱(re)度(du)(du)(du)(du)的(de)(de)(de)(de)理化檢驗(yan)，檢查疵點，測幅(fu)寬，整理緯斜以(yi)及熱(re)預(yu)縮等(deng)。②制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)和樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)。根據服裝款式(shi)、規格(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)性能和縫制(zhi)工藝要(yao)求(qiu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板(ban)制(zhi)成劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)，并(bing)制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)搭(da)配等(deng)。③排(pai)(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)排(pai)(pai)列(lie)在(zai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)上或(huo)與衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)幅(fu)寬相同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)紙上，以(yi)求(qiu)最大(da)限度(du)(du)(du)(du)地(di)提高衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)率。④劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。按(an)(an)排(pai)(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)確定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)格(ge)式(shi)，依樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)劃(hua)(hua)出(chu)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)輪廓和記號(hao)(hao)。批量大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)產(chan)品(pin)通(tong)常(chang)(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)漏(lou)花樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(將(jiang)排(pai)(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)線路鉆成等(deng)距連續針孔的(de)(de)(de)(de)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban))，以(yi)刷樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末刷入(ru)孔內使(shi)之漏(lou)下顯形(xing))取代(dai)(dai)(dai)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。20世紀(ji)60年(nian)代(dai)(dai)(dai)出(chu)現用(yong)(yong)(yong)于服裝設(she)計(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)計(ji)算機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)輔助設(she)計(ji)系(xi)統(tong)(CAD)，按(an)(an)實樣(yang)(yang)(yang)或(huo)比(bi)例繪出(chu)排(pai)(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)(de)(de)新技術。⑤鋪料(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)(an)排(pai)(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)所需長度(du)(du)(du)(du)、幅(fu)寬、數(shu)量，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)多(duo)層疊鋪在(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)臺上。50年(nian)代(dai)(dai)(dai)除手工鋪料(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采(cai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)手推(tui)車或(huo)往(wang)返(fan)式(shi)電動(dong)(dong)鋪料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)操(cao)作。80年(nian)代(dai)(dai)(dai)應(ying)用(yong)(yong)(yong)微電腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)自動(dong)(dong)鋪料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)，能自動(dong)(dong)進(jin)行(xing)正、反(fan)面(mian)交(jiao)叉(cha)或(huo)單面(mian)鋪料(liao)(liao)(liao)，自動(dong)(dong)理邊(bian)、記數(shu)等(deng)。⑥開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)(an)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)線路將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)成衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)。通(tong)常(chang)(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)立(li)式(shi)電剪(jian)刀(見(jian)日用(yong)(yong)(yong)五金)，最高開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)(du)(du)(du)可(ke)達160mm，薄型(xing)織(zhi)物(wu)約200層。此(ci)外還有各(ge)種輔助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)設(she)備(bei)，如(ru)帶式(shi)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(又(you)稱環(huan)形(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji))、沖(chong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)等(deng)。60年(nian)代(dai)(dai)(dai)末出(chu)現使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)自動(dong)(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(CAM)。⑦分(fen)包(bao)(bao)。將(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)按(an)(an)不(bu)同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)規格(ge)、顏色(se)歸(gui)類，分(fen)成若干包(bao)(bao)。⑧編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)一(yi)件(包(bao)(bao))服裝的(de)(de)(de)(de)各(ge)組(zu)合衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)成同(tong)(tong)一(yi)個順序號(hao)(hao)。有以(yi)包(bao)(bao)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)或(huo)以(yi)件編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)兩種。襯衫、睡衣(yi)(yi)(yi)等(deng)產(chan)品(pin)通(tong)常(chang)(chang)以(yi)一(yi)匹同(tong)(tong)色(se)原(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)(an)序編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)，對易產(chan)生色(se)差的(de)(de)(de)(de)采(cai)取分(fen)層以(yi)件編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)自動(dong)(dong)號(hao)(hao)碼機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)打印。⑨扎包(bao)(bao)。將(jiang)產(chan)品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)組(zu)合裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)按(an)(an)規定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)搭(da)配要(yao)求(qiu)包(bao)(bao)扎在(zai)一(yi)起，并(bing)在(zai)包(bao)(bao)外注明標號(hao)(hao)，掛(gua)上標簽。在(zai)服裝加工廠給客戶做大(da)貨時就會用(yong)(yong)(yong)批量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)方法進(jin)行(xing)。

　　單件裁剪

　　對合體(ti)要求較高(gao)或(huo)(huo)特(te)殊體(ti)型(xing)(xing)(xing)的(de)定制(zhi)服裝(zhuang)加工、樣品等進(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。根(gen)據穿著(zhu)對象的(de)體(ti)型(xing)(xing)(xing)或(huo)(huo)樣品測取(qu)各(ge)(ge)種裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)數(shu)(shu)據。上(shang)(shang)(shang)衣(yi)(yi)主要測量(liang)部(bu)位(wei)有(you)(you)衣(yi)(yi)長、胸圍(wei)、肩(jian)寬、袖長、領圍(wei)。緊身式(shi)(shi)女裝(zhuang)還需(xu)增測腰圍(wei)、臀圍(wei)、乳高(gao)、乳距、前后腰節長度(du)等。褲(ku)(ku)的(de)主要測量(liang)部(bu)位(wei)有(you)(you)褲(ku)(ku)長、腰圍(wei)、臀圍(wei)、上(shang)(shang)(shang)襠長。單件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)主要有(you)(you) 5種。①比(bi)例法(fa)(fa)：即胸度(du)法(fa)(fa)或(huo)(huo)臀度(du)法(fa)(fa)。上(shang)(shang)(shang)衣(yi)(yi)以(yi)人體(ti)胸圍(wei)為(wei)(wei)基礎(chu)，下裝(zhuang)以(yi)人體(ti)臀圍(wei)為(wei)(wei)基礎(chu)，對其他部(bu)位(wei)尺(chi)寸根(gen)據胸圍(wei)或(huo)(huo)臀圍(wei)進(jin)行(xing)比(bi)例分配。②原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)(xing)法(fa)(fa)：又稱基型(xing)(xing)(xing)法(fa)(fa)。依測量(liang)人體(ti)的(de)尺(chi)寸為(wei)(wei)基準，繪制(zhi)模具(ju)式(shi)(shi)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)(xing)，然(ran)后在原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)(xing)基礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)按(an)款式(shi)(shi)特(te)點作局(ju)部(bu)調整，再進(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。③定寸法(fa)(fa)：用(yong)文字或(huo)(huo)圖形將各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)所需(xu)數(shu)(shu)據全(quan)部(bu)標(biao)出，然(ran)后按(an)標(biao)出的(de)尺(chi)寸裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。④短寸法(fa)(fa)：對人體(ti)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)盡可能進(jin)行(xing)測量(liang)，然(ran)后按(an)取(qu)得的(de)數(shu)(shu)據進(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。⑤立體(ti)法(fa)(fa)：在人體(ti)模型(xing)(xing)(xing)或(huo)(huo)人體(ti)上(shang)(shang)(shang)直接塑造(zao)服裝(zhuang)款式(shi)(shi)，并做好(hao)各(ge)(ge)種標(biao)記，是(shi)將設計造(zao)型(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)融為(wei)(wei)一體(ti)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)。縫制(zhi)前還需(xu)復原(yuan)為(wei)(wei)平面，作必要的(de)修正或(huo)(huo)復制(zhi)成(cheng)樣板。常用(yong)于裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)某些立體(ti)感強，造(zao)型(xing)(xing)(xing)難度(du)高(gao)，衣(yi)(yi)料柔(rou)軟，具(ju)懸(xuan)垂特(te)性的(de)女式(shi)(shi)時(shi)裝(zhuang)。服裝(zhuang)加工廠(chang)給(gei)客戶打版時(shi)就(jiu)會用(yong)單件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)進(jin)行(xing)。